Deep green evergreen foliage and small white flowers full of fragrance make the orange tree (Citrus sinensis) ornamental long before it fruits, and its sweet, juicy oranges are famously healthy. It asks only for full sun, rich well-drained soil and shelter from frost and wind — meet that, and the harvest is generous.
| Name | Citrus sinensis |
|---|---|
| Family | Rutaceae (Rue family) |
| Type | Fruit tree |
| Height | About 16 feet (5 meters) |
| Soil | Well drained, sandy and rich |
| Exposure | Full sun |
| Foliage | Evergreen |
| Flowering | Mid-spring to midsummer |
| Harvest | Winter |
Planting, care and pruning your orange tree are important tasks. Do them well, and you’ll grow a healthy tree with lots of luscious oranges.
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In mild climates, you can grow the orange tree directly in the ground if the weather permits: it shouldn’t freeze in winter. If it does freeze, you’ll have to grow your orange tree in a pot so that you can bring it indoors when the temperature drops.
Interestingly, you should know that the orange tree also doesn’t like it when it gets too hot. Over 95°F (35°C), it again goes dormant. Last tip: avoid windy areas because branches are brittle and will break easily, especially when heavy with fruit.
First thing to remember: the orange tree can only be planted directly in the ground in regions where it doesn’t freeze in winter.
In areas where winters are on the cold side, you must plant your orange tree in a large garden box.
In winter, try to place it in a very bright room, where the temperature should not drop below 41 to 43°F (5 to 6° C) during this time.
Early spring, you can bring it out for it to spend the rest of the year outdoors.
When planting or repotting, favor a blend of soil mix and plant-based soil without any limestone, one part each.
Repot preferably in spring, after the fruit harvest or at the end of summer before flowering.
Before choosing between open ground and a container, it helps to know exactly what temperatures an orange tree can take. These are the thresholds that decide where your tree spends the winter.
| Temperature | What happens to the tree | What it means for you |
|---|---|---|
| Down to 15°F (-9°C) | The trunk can pull through a cold spell | Only mild, frost-free gardens can risk open ground |
| Under 26°F (-3°C) | Leaves die off | Where winters freeze, grow in a pot and bring it in |
| 32 to 50°F (0 to 10°C) | The tree goes dormant | Overwinter in a bright room, never below 41 to 43°F (5 to 6°C) |
| Over 95°F (35°C) | Dormant again — growth simply stops | Extreme heat is no better than cold; shelter matters both ways |
Whichever option you choose, keep the tree out of the wind: brittle branches snap easily when loaded with fruit.
Watering, for an orange tree, is very important. This is even more true if in a pot, since soil tends to dry off much faster.
Use rainwater whenever you can, since the orange tree dislikes the lime found in most tap water.
Empty the saucer under a potted orange tree after each watering.
Wait until the surface of the soil feels dry before watering again, rather than following a fixed rhythm.
Fruits only grow on new growth, so you must prune at the end of winter, during the months of February or March.
Producing nice oranges: to produce nice oranges, add citrus-specific fertilizer during the growth phase.
Harvest any mature oranges before you start pruning, since citrus doesn’t sweeten further once picked and any fruit still hanging on a branch you cut off is simply lost.
Remove suckers sprouting below the graft union as soon as they appear.
Once the centre is opened up, paint newly exposed limbs with white latex or lime wash to stop the thin citrus bark scalding in full sun.
Some orange tree varieties don’t self-pollinate easily. It’s best if you can ensure proper cross-pollination between compatible varieties.
Professionals propagate orange trees through cuttings. This ensures new trees match the mother plant’s taste and characteristics. Regularly, new hybrids are developed to try and enhance productivity, resistance (to freezing, for instance), and taste.
Typical varieties for growing in the garden include “navel” varieties. They’re healthy, sweet and juicy.
For potted growing, dwarf varieties are better. For instance, the “dwarf Valencia” is both productive and suited for container growing.
As is the case for most citrus trees, the orange tree may fall victim to fungus and/or parasites. It’s important to treat them fast.
Very loved by the kings of France, orange trees are the reason many buildings called orangeries were built in castle gardens.
These wide-windowed buildings were the greenhouses of old, with much light and a mild temperatures during winter: perfect to winterize these little trees!
Citrus trees are remarkable for the deep green of their foliage and their white, fragrant flowers. As can be seen, this all makes the tree pretty ornamental!
It healthy fruits add to this exotic appearance, you’ll be thrilled!
Protect them well in winter, and shelter them from wind in summer to best support fruit bearing!
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