Long, narrow evergreen leaves radiate from a slender trunk that shows more of itself each year as the lower foliage drops: the cabbage tree (Cordyline australis) brings a touch of the exotic to a deck or poolside. It asks for one thing above all — a sun-bathed spot in light, well-drained soil, since cold, sodden ground will kill it.
| Name | Cordyline australis |
|---|---|
| Family | Agavaceae |
| Type | exotic plant |
| Height | 10 to 16 feet (3 to 5 meters) |
| Exposure | very well-lit |
| Soil | light, well-drained |
| Hardiness | average (20°F or -7°C) |
| Foliage | evergreen |
Here is all our advice on the proper care to grow a beautiful cordyline:
First and foremost, cordyline won’t grow in just any climate. It essentially hates it when the weather gets too cold (colder than 14° or -10°C), and at the same when the soil is wet and moist. Such conditions lead to a hard freeze that the plant cannot survive.
You might say that the hardiness of cordyline is average, and it’ll best be suited to gardens that don’t have too harsh a winter.
Note: if you plant it in a pot, you have the option of bringing it indoors on the coldest days.
As a general rule, cordyline is best planted in fall or spring, spring being better if you’re in an area that gets colder winters.
Choose a sun-bathed area that’s, if possible, sheltered from strong winds.
Preparing for the planting is important because it determines the proper growth of your cordyline.
Regular but reasonable watering is nearly mandatory during the first year after planting when the first heat waves hit.
This is most often the time of the year when cordyline grows most.
In case of drought or of intense heat waves, water regularly but without ever drenching the base: cordyline really hates having too much water.
Watering must be regular but limited, in order to not suffocate the plant’s roots.
You might say that watering every 2 or 3 days is often enough.
Come spring, you can give your plant granulated fertilizer, simply line the base of your cordyline with a few pellets and repeat, if needed, during the summertime.
You can let it grow on its own, without doing anything: it should naturally drop its lower leaves and also send new shoots out from the base.
However, if you prefer to do away with dried-out leaves, remove them once the dry portion reaches the clump.
It’s also possible to keep only 2, 3 or even 4 main stems and remove any new ones that appear from the the base.
Good to know: Avoid, at all costs, beheading your cordyline.
Cordyline generally produces a flower in spring. It’s a phase that tends to exhaust the plant.
On indoor plants, this is such a drain on the plant’s resources that it’s preferable to actually cut the floral scape: indoor blooming is nothing like the natural bloom and it won’t add much appeal to your cordyline plant.
However, if you let it bloom and go to seed, you’ll be able to propagate your cordyline from the seeds that form on in the seed pods once the flower is gone.
If the cordyline continues to produce new leaves, this is part of its natural cycle. Such plants, even evergreens, lose their leaves to renew them.
This phenomenon usually happens in summer, when the plant lacks water.
The tip of each leaf starts drying out: this is the sign that cordyline needs watering.
Most cordyline worries show up in the foliage. Match what you see to the cause before reaching for the watering can.
| What you see | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Lower leaves yellowing while new ones keep coming | Natural leaf renewal | Let them dry on the plant and drop, or cut them off as they brown |
| Yellow leaves and no new shoots, plant looks poorly | Watering or drainage problem | Check watering and drainage, and feed with liquid fertilizer every fortnight |
| Leaf tips drying and browning in summer | The plant is short of water | Water regularly, without drenching the base |
| Plant collapses after a cold, wet spell | Hard freeze in soggy soil | Grow in light, well-drained soil, or in a pot that can come indoors |
Watering and drainage explain most of these symptoms, so start there.
Beyond the plain green species, cabbage trees come in bronze, red and striped forms that differ mainly in leaf colour and eventual size. Use the table below to match a variety to your border, patio or pot.
| Variety | Leaf colour | Best use |
|---|---|---|
| ‘Torbay Dazzler’ | Green with creamy-white margins | Bright accent in a sunny bed |
| ‘Purpurea’ | Purple-bronze | Tall exotic backdrop |
| ‘Red Star’ | Deep bronze-red | Patio pots, contemporary planting |
| ‘Albertii’ | Grey-green, cream stripes, pink midrib | Sheltered border, focal point |
| ‘Sundance’ | Green with pink-red midrib | Poolside and deck planting |
All there is to know about cabbage trees
Cordyline is a very beautiful plant that will usher a touch of exotic appeal into your garden. Near a deck, at the poolside, or even in a pot: cordyline will turn your garden into a true postcard-worthy destination!
All in one aesthetic, resilient and relatively easy to grow, cordyline is one of the most appreciated and often-purchased exotic plants.
Of course, its ornamental foliage is its prime appeal, but many also mention the superb stem that appears as leaves drop when the plant grows taller.
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