Moon Planting calendar February 2027

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day calls for action under cover — check on leafy seedlings started in trays and pot on any that look root-bound. Transplant lettuce seedlings into a cold frame or tunnel, spacing them 25 cm apart in rows 30 cm wide; firm the soil gently around each crown to prevent air pockets / Sorrel is a resilient winter performer: set young plants out 25 cm apart in rows 30 cm, and they'll reward you with tender leaves for months / Chives started in modules can go out now, 15 cm apart in rows 25 cm — a reliable, low-maintenance edging that earns its place all year.

LANDSCAPING : Hydrangeas will appreciate having old flower heads cleared away now; leave about 5 cm of stem above the first healthy pair of buds / If you have winter jasmine that has just finished flowering, prune back the stems that bloomed and tie in the new green shoots to keep the framework tidy / Rhododendrons can receive a fresh 4–5 cm layer of pine bark mulch around the base to conserve moisture and protect shallow roots from lingering frost.

ORCHARD : Until this morning the day carried a leaf character — but from mid-morning onward the moon moves into fruit territory, and that's where your attention should settle. Take advantage of the waning crescent's quiet energy to carry out fruiting pruning on apple and pear trees: remove crossing branches, open up the crown to light, and cut back laterals to two or three buds above the main framework / Grapevines are waiting for their winter prune — work along each rod, cutting back to one or two buds; the sap is still low, so wounds heal cleanly without weeping / Quince trees benefit from a light tidy now: shorten any whippy growth from last season and clear congested spurs. In heavier soils, mulch the base with 5 cm of compost to protect roots from late cold snaps.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A fruit day suits fruiting crops perfectly under cover. Sow tomatoes in trays or modules, 0.5 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart — a heated propagator set to 20°C speeds things along considerably / Chili peppers and aubergines are worth starting now too: same depth, same spacing, same warmth requirement; the earlier you sow, the longer your harvest window. In a Mediterranean climate, a cold greenhouse is sufficient, but further north a heated bench makes all the difference.

LANDSCAPING : Camellia buds are swelling visibly this week — a top-dressing of ericaceous compost around the base (keeping it clear of the stem) will feed the roots gently without disturbing the plant / Winter jasmine that has finished flowering can be pruned back now: cut flowered shoots to a strong pair of buds and tie in any new green stems to their support.

ORCHARD : Apogee day — the moon sits at its greatest distance from Earth, and experienced gardeners know this calls for calm, observational work rather than intervention. Walk your orchard and assess the structure of apple, pear, and quince trees before buds begin to swell: note which branches cross, which spurs look congested, and sketch a simple pruning plan for the coming week / Check ties on young cherry and plum trees — winter winds can work knots loose or cut into expanding bark; loosen anything that feels tight and replace fraying twine with soft tree-tie tape / Inspect the base of grapevines for any bark splitting or frost damage, and clear away debris around the root zone.

LANDSCAPING : A quiet moment to look, not to cut. Walk around camellia and rhododendron shrubs and note any winter-scorched foliage — resist the urge to remove it now, as the damaged leaves still protect emerging buds / Snowdrops and crocus should be pushing through by now; if the ground is bare, a thin layer of fine compost mulch around established clumps will feed the soil without smothering the shoots / Hellebores in part shade benefit from a gentle clear of old leaves around the crown — this improves air circulation and lets you appreciate the nodding flowers properly / Check winter jasmine stems and re-tie any that have worked free from their support; the flexible young growth ties in easily with soft twine.

ORCHARD : Before the evening sign change brings a root character, the waning crescent sits in fruit territory — a good stretch of time to focus on fruiting trees. Walk along your grapevines with secateurs in hand and complete any remaining winter pruning: cut back each lateral to one or two healthy buds, working cleanly so wounds close without weeping / Bare-root raspberry canes are still in season — plant them now, 50 cm apart, and firm the soil gently around each crown; the low sap pressure means they'll settle in without stress / Inspect stored apple and pear harvests: remove any showing soft spots before rot spreads, and wipe the remaining fruit with a dry cloth to extend their keeping quality / Currant bushes and blackcurrants respond well to a light structural prune now — remove old, dark wood at the base, leaving the youngest canes to carry next season's crop.

LANDSCAPING : A frost-bright morning is a fine moment to assess your roses: bare-root plants can still go in until March, so if a border feels thin, now is the time to act. Dig a generous planting hole, work in a handful of compost, and spread the roots outward before backfilling / Hellebores are quietly coming into their own — check that mulch hasn't smothered the crowns, and clear any blackened old leaves to let fresh flowers show through / After the evening sign change, the character shifts toward roots: a good cue to mulch the base of hedges with a 5 cm layer of wood chip, locking in soil moisture ahead of spring growth.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A root day through and through — the waning crescent is nearing its final sliver, and the soil feels quietly receptive. Under cover, try sowing parsnip seeds 1 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart in modules; they germinate slowly, so starting early gives them a real head start / Celeriac is another candidate for a warm windowsill tray: sow at just 0.3 cm depth, seeds 2 cm apart / If you have established black salsify or skirret, lift a few roots carefully with a fork for immediate use — avoid snapping the long taproots / Black radish and turnip seeds can go in under a cold frame at 1 cm deep, 3 cm apart.

LANDSCAPING : Frost-lit mornings remind you how much bare ground benefits from a protective layer. Spread a 5–7 cm mulch of composted bark around hellebore clumps and rhododendron roots to buffer the last hard frosts / Camellia buds are quietly swelling — keep the root zone consistently moist and top up any ericaceous mulch that has thinned / Winter jasmine stems can be tied in and lightly trimmed now to encourage strong shoots for next season.

VEGETABLE PATCH : New Moon and a solar eclipse today — a convergence that calls for stepping back rather than digging in. The ascending node arrives later this evening, compounding the unfavourable character of the day. Harvest corn salad leaves for the table, handling the crowns gently to avoid bruising / Take a moment to check leek stems still standing in the ground: loosen any soil that has crusted around the base and apply a thin layer of straw mulch to protect roots from overnight frost / Inspect stored cabbages for signs of rot at the outer leaves; peel away damaged layers and improve ventilation in your storage space.

LANDSCAPING : A quiet morning in the garden is a good time to sharpen your secateurs and loppers — a few strokes with a whetstone make a real difference when pruning season arrives. Check ties on hellebore stems bent by winter wind, and ease any that are cutting into the stalks / Snowdrops are likely in bloom now: admire them, but leave the clumps undisturbed; dividing in the green works best after flowering / Camellia and rhododendron both appreciate a fresh top-dressing of ericaceous mulch around their root zones — 5 cm of bark chips holds moisture and gradually acidifies the soil / Winter jasmine stems sprawling loose from their support can be gently re-tied today without any cutting.

ORCHARD : Walk your apple, pear, and quince trees with a notebook rather than a saw. Sketch which crossing branches need to come out once conditions improve, and mark congested spurs with a twist of coloured twine as a reminder / Check grapevine ties and remove any old shredded bark from the trunk base — it can harbour overwintering pests / Currant bushes and blackcurrants benefit from a mulch of well-rotted compost around the crown today; keep it a few centimetres clear of the main stems.

LANDSCAPING : A pale winter sun filters through bare branches — the morning hours suit root-oriented work before the sign change around midday. Bare-root roses are still available in nurseries: plant them now, spreading the roots generously in a wide hole and working in a good handful of compost at the base / Currant bushes and blackcurrant plants can go in too, spaced 1.2 m apart; firm the soil well and water in even in cool weather / Prune back hydrangea stems, removing spent flowerheads just above a plump pair of buds — it encourages strong new growth without weakening the plant.

VEGETABLE PATCH : After midday, the moon shifts into flower territory — a welcome change for the kitchen garden. Under cover on a warm windowsill, sow cauliflower seeds 1 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart in trays or modules; starting now gives transplants a solid six to eight weeks before outdoor conditions allow planting out / Broccoli follows the same method: 1 cm deep, 3 cm apart, in a heated propagator if you have one / Artichoke offsets can be ordered now and planned for spring planting — note their spacing of 1 m each way and choose a sheltered, sunny corner.

ORCHARD : The ascending waxing crescent brings quiet energy to fruit trees. Check grapevines for any missed pruning cuts, trimming laterals back to one or two buds before sap begins to rise / Quince trees respond well to a light tidy now: remove crossing branches with clean secateurs and clear any congestion from the centre / Hazel catkins are already releasing pollen — a reassuring sign that the garden is quietly waking up.

LANDSCAPING : A flower day under a waxing crescent — the ascending moon encourages energy to rise toward blooms and buds. Sow pansy seeds under cover in trays, pressing them just 0.3 cm deep with seeds 2 cm apart; they'll reward you with cheerful colour by late spring / If you have a sheltered spot with ericaceous soil, plant a camellia now — choose light shade to protect delicate petals from morning frost burn / Rhododendrons benefit from the same attention: lay a generous permanent mulch of pine bark around the base to retain moisture and keep roots cool.

ORCHARD : Bare-root raspberry canes are still available and February suits planting well — set them 50 cm apart, firm the soil carefully around the roots, and cut canes back to about 25 cm to encourage strong new growth from the base / Grapevines can also go in now before bud break: choose a sunny, sheltered wall and prepare the soil with compost worked in generously / If you have a quince tree, a light formative prune now while dormant will open the canopy and improve fruiting later in the season.

LANDSCAPING : Before the evening sign change, the ascending waxing crescent favours flower-type work — a good stretch of hours to make the most of it. Sow cauliflower seeds under cover in trays, pressing them just 1 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart; they germinate reliably at 15–18 °C and reward you with sturdy heads come late spring / Primroses can go straight into the ground from their pots — tuck them into a lightly shaded border, firm the soil around the roots and water in gently / If your hellebores have finished their first flush, resist the urge to move them: they dislike disturbance and will settle better left in place with a light top-dressing of leaf mould. In Mediterranean gardens, oleander cuttings taken now and kept in a frost-free spot will root steadily through the weeks ahead.

ORCHARD : A flower day also suits the orchard in subtle ways — cut a few flowering winter jasmine stems for a simple indoor arrangement, where warmth will coax out the last buds / Check grapevine pruning cuts made earlier in the month: clean wounds heal faster than ragged ones, so trim any frayed edges with a sharp blade / Kiwi plants benefit from a tidy-up now too; remove any crossing or dead wood before sap flow accelerates.

INDOORS : After the evening sign change, the mood shifts to leaf territory — a quiet moment to wipe dusty foliage clean with a damp cloth, letting houseplants absorb every bit of pale February light. Cyclamen tubers sitting at the compost surface will appreciate a light misting rather than heavy watering at this cooler stage of winter.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Frost still grips the soil in many gardens, but a leaf day under the waxing crescent is a quiet invitation to work under cover. Sow spinach in trays, 2 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart — at 10–15 °C it germinates steadily / Lettuce sown under glass, 0.5 cm deep with seeds 2 cm apart, will be ready to plant out at 25 cm spacing once the cold eases / Chives can go into a small pot on a bright windowsill, sown 1 cm deep with seeds 2 cm apart — snip regularly to keep them productive.

INDOORS : A leaf day suits lush foliage — wipe large leaves with a damp cloth to clear winter dust and help them absorb what little light February offers / Foliar sprays of diluted horsetail decoction applied to indoor herbs strengthen cell walls and reduce fungal risk in low-ventilation rooms.

ORCHARD : The grapevine is still fully dormant — late winter is the last reliable window for pruning before sap rises. Keep two to three buds on each spur and collect the prunings for composting.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day under the waxing crescent — the ascending moon draws energy into foliage, making this a steady morning to work under cover. Sow kale in trays, pressing seeds 1 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart; at 15–18 °C seedlings emerge within a week and will be ready to plant out at 50 cm spacing once the cold retreats / Parsley is worth starting now in a module tray, 1 cm deep with seeds 2 cm apart — it's notoriously slow to germinate, so an early start pays off by spring / Chicory sown under cover at 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, gives you a useful cut-and-come-again crop for late spring salads.

INDOORS : Wipe large-leaved houseplants with a damp cloth — winter dust settles invisibly and can halve the light reaching the leaf surface / Sorrel growing in a pot on a bright windowsill appreciates a diluted foliar spray of horsetail decoction; it strengthens cell walls and keeps leaves firm / Check that your lemon tree, overwintering under frost-free cover, isn't sitting in a saucer of water — sparse watering now prevents root rot through to April.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the sign change (morning), leaf day — check over your leeks under cover, sown 1 cm deep with seeds 2 cm apart; they appreciate a gentle liquid feed of diluted nettle tea at this stage to boost leafy growth / Corn salad sown in place at 1 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, can handle a light frost and will fill gaps in the cold frame nicely / Cabbage seedlings already in trays benefit from thinning to the strongest plant per cell, giving roots room to develop before planting out at 50 cm spacing.

ORCHARD : After the sign change, fruit day — the ascending waxing crescent shifts into fruit-type energy, a fine stretch for sowing tomatoes under cover in module trays, 0.5 cm deep with seeds 3 cm apart, at a steady 20–22 °C; germination takes 8–12 days and an early start means strong transplants come April / Chili pepper and aubergine are worth starting alongside tomatoes: both need warmth, so a heated propagator earns its keep now / Take a walk around your grapevine and raspberry canes — check ties, clear debris from the base, and plan any pruning for the grapevine while it is still fully dormant. In mild Mediterranean gardens, bare-root raspberry planting at 50 cm spacing can begin if the soil has drained well after winter rain.

ORCHARD : A fruit day under the ascending waxing moon — steady energy flows toward fruiting wood, making this a fine stretch for bare-root planting. Set in a pear tree or apple tree now while the soil is still workable, firming the roots well and staking against winter gusts / If you have a grapevine to position, late February is its moment: plant in a sheltered, sunny spot and prune the main cane back hard to two or three buds to encourage strong new growth / Quince tree and hazel also settle well at this stage — mulch generously with 8–10 cm of wood chip to insulate roots and suppress early weeds.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root roses are still available and worth planting before the soil firms up — choose a spot with at least six hours of light and work in a handful of compost before settling the roots / Hellebores in bud reward a gentle clear-up: remove old, blackened leaves at the base to expose the flowers and reduce botrytis risk / Winter jasmine has just finished its show — tie in any loose stems now and give it a light trim to encourage fresh shoots before spring.

ORCHARD : First Quarter energy today — the ascending waxing moon reaches its first quarter, then the day shifts from a fruit type to a root type around midday. Make the most of the fruit morning: plant a bare-root pear tree or apple tree while the soil is still workable, firming roots well into a generous planting hole and staking against lingering winter gusts / Raspberry canes planted now at 50 cm apart will establish quickly as the moon's ascending energy encourages root activity — cut each cane back to 30 cm after planting to focus the plant's effort on rooting / A currant bush or blackcurrant set in now at 1.2 m apart will benefit from a generous collar of compost mulch, 8–10 cm deep, to retain moisture and keep weeds at bay through the coming weeks.

VEGETABLE PATCH : After the sign change around midday, the day turns to a root type — a steadier moment for maintenance rather than new sowings. Firm up any recently planted bare-root stock that frost has lifted overnight, pressing gently around the base to re-establish soil contact / Spread a layer of well-rotted compost around the base of established fruit trees and currant bushes, working it lightly into the top 3–4 cm without disturbing the shallow feeder roots.

LANDSCAPING : A dry winter morning is a fine excuse to inspect bare-root roses still waiting in a heel-in trench — check roots for any blackened or mushy sections and trim cleanly before planting into their final position, spacing 60–80 cm apart. Firm the soil well around the crown and mulch with 8–10 cm of well-rotted compost to hold moisture and suppress early weeds / Winter jasmine stems that have finished flowering can be tied in now and lightly trimmed to keep the framework tidy ahead of spring growth.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A root day under the waxing gibbous moon — steady ascending energy suits root crops well. Sow carrot 1 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, in rows 25 cm apart; the ascending moon encourages strong downward development / Radish is just as willing: 1 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, rows 15 cm apart — they germinate quickly even in cool soil / Thin any beetroot seedlings to 10 cm apart in the row so each root has room to swell. In sandy soils, a light mulch between rows keeps the surface from crusting.

LANDSCAPING : Check over your hellebores — a gentle tidy of old leaves at the base lets light reach the flowers and reduces fungal pressure / Winter jasmine stems that have finished flowering can be tied in and lightly shortened to keep the plant shapely and encourage fresh growth for next winter.

ORCHARD : Grapevines still need their winter pruning before sap rises; prune to two or three buds on each lateral spur on a dry, frost-free day so cuts seal cleanly.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A steady root day — good energy for tucking in alliums. Plant garlic cloves 3 cm deep, tip up, spaced 12 cm apart; firm the soil gently so no air pocket forms at the base / Shallots go in at soil level, 15 cm apart in rows 25 cm apart — push each bulb just enough that the tip sits proud of the surface / Jerusalem artichoke tubers can go in now too, 10 cm deep and 50 cm apart; they need very little fuss and will reward you with a generous autumn harvest.

ORCHARD : A quince tree or hazel set in now, roots spread naturally in the hole, will anchor itself well before spring growth begins / Currant bush and blackcurrant planted 1.2 m apart benefit from an 8–10 cm collar of compost mulch to lock in moisture and suppress early weeds / Clear debris from around grapevine stems — good hygiene now reduces disease pressure later.

LANDSCAPING : Hydrangea stems from last season still stand firm in the cold — remove spent flowerheads cleanly just above the first healthy pair of buds, leaving the main framework intact / Winter jasmine that has finished its display can be pruned back and new stems tied in to the support, keeping the plant productive for next winter.

LANDSCAPING : The day shifts from a root type in the morning to a flower type — and the flower hours are the longest. Bare-root roses planted now, spread wide in a generous hole and settled with a good shovelful of compost, will anchor themselves beautifully before the sap fully rises / Prune any roses already in the ground: cut to an outward-facing bud at a 45° angle, removing dead or crossing wood first / Divide perennials like chrysanthemum clumps with two forks back to back — replant the vigorous outer sections 40 cm apart, discard the woody centre.

ORCHARD : Grapevines are still dormant and ready for their winter pruning — work through each cane methodically, keeping two or three buds on each spur / A quince tree or fig tree planted in a sheltered, sunny corner now will have weeks to establish before bud break; firm the roots in and water thoroughly even in cool weather / Currant bush and blackcurrant benefit from a tidy at this stage: remove any stems older than three years at the base to encourage vigorous new growth from the crown.

INDOORS : Forced hyacinth or daffodil bulbs finishing their display indoors deserve a little attention — deadhead the spent blooms promptly and keep watering until the foliage yellows naturally, so the bulb stores enough energy for next season / A camellia overwintering in a cool room can be moved to a brighter spot now; wipe its leaves with a damp cloth to clear dust and improve light absorption.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The day shifts from a flower type in the morning to a leaf type — and the leaf hours are the longest. Once the sign change has passed, conditions are well suited for transplanting leafy crops under cover / Plant out lettuce seedlings 25 cm apart in the row, rows 30 cm apart, firming the soil gently around each root ball with your fingertips / Chives started in modules can go in now too, 15 cm apart, rows 25 cm — a handful of compost worked into each planting hole gives them a quiet boost / Spinach transplants settle in well on a leaf day; space them 8 cm apart, rows 30 cm, and water in with a fine rose to avoid disturbing fine roots. In heavier soils, raise the bed slightly to prevent waterlogging.

LANDSCAPING : Before the sign change — while the morning still carries flower energy — check over your hellebores and camellias: remove any tatty outer leaves at the base of hellebores to open up airflow, and deadhead spent camellia blooms before they rot against the stem / Winter jasmine that has finished its display can be pruned back now, shortening flowered shoots to two or three buds and tying in any loose stems / Hydrangeas benefit from having last year's spent flower heads removed cleanly just above a fat, healthy bud — this keeps the framework tidy and lets light into the centre of the shrub.

ORCHARD : A waxing gibbous moon approaching full gives good vigour for planting bare-root specimens. Set a quince tree or a currant bush into well-prepared ground, spreading roots naturally and backfilling with a mix of topsoil and compost / Mulch the base of newly planted fruit trees with an 8–10 cm layer, keeping it clear of the trunk — this conserves moisture and moderates soil temperature as the season turns.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the sign change this evening, the day runs as a leaf type — a good stretch of hours for tending leafy crops already under cover / Check leeks for any yellowing outer leaves and remove them cleanly; a light top-dressing of well-rotted compost worked around the base encourages steady growth / Cabbage plants overwintering in the bed will appreciate a tidy-up: strip off damaged outer leaves, firm any frost-lifted roots back into the soil, and lay a 5 cm mulch of straw around the base to hold warmth in / Corn salad in a cold frame benefits from careful weeding between rows — use a narrow hoe and work lightly to avoid disturbing shallow roots.

LANDSCAPING : After the sign change in the evening, the day shifts to a fruit type — a good moment to think ahead for your ornamental shrubs / Hydrangea stems still carry last year's dried flowerheads: remove them now with clean secateurs just above the first plump bud / Camellia and rhododendron will thank you for a generous collar of ericaceous mulch — pine bark or leaf mould, 6–8 cm deep, kept just clear of the stem / Check winter jasmine stems tied to supports and tighten any loose ties before spring growth accelerates.

ORCHARD : Currant bush and blackcurrant benefit from a careful inspection now: remove any dead or crossing wood, cutting cleanly to an outward-facing bud / Grapevines still dormant are ready for their final winter pruning pass — keep two or three buds on each spur and collect prunings promptly to reduce disease pressure / Quince tree and hazel both appreciate a light formative cut at this stage; step back often to assess the overall shape before each cut.

ORCHARD : A lunar node this morning and a penumbral eclipse tonight make this a day for calm observation rather than active work. Walk through the orchard with your garden journal: note which apple, pear, and quince trees show the most promising bud swell, and sketch a rough plan for the pruning order once conditions improve / Check the base of grapevines for any winter damage to the bark; if you spot cracking or canker, note it now and plan your response / Spread a 7–8 cm layer of well-rotted compost around the drip line of raspberry canes and currant bushes — no digging, just lay it flat and let the soil fauna do the work.

LANDSCAPING : A quiet moment to tend what is already in the ground. If you have hellebores in bloom, remove any blackened or damaged leaves at the base — this improves air circulation and lets the flowers show properly / Check heather and rhododendron beds: top up the acid mulch (pine bark or leaf mould) to 5 cm, keeping it clear of the crown / Winter jasmine that has finished flowering can be lightly tidied: remove any dead stems and tie in the new whippy growth before it tangles.

INDOORS : Lemon trees and oleanders overwintering under cover deserve a careful check today / Inspect lemon tree leaves for scale insects — wipe affected stems with a damp cloth dipped in diluted black soap / Water sparingly, only when the top 3 cm of compost feels dry; cold, wet roots are the main risk at this time of year / Sharpen and clean your secateurs and pruning saw while you have the time — a whetstone and a drop of camellia oil on the blade will keep them ready for the season ahead.

ORCHARD : A fruit day with the moon descending — good conditions for planting and working around dormant trees / Bare-root apple trees and pear trees go in well now: dig a wide hole, loosen the base with a fork, and set the union 5 cm above soil level; backfill in stages, firming gently with your foot / Raspberry canes can go in 50 cm apart; a handful of compost in each planting hole gives roots something to explore straight away / Grapevines planted this month establish well before the sap rises — set them at the same depth as in the nursery and cut back to two or three strong buds.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root roses planted now will have several weeks to settle before growth begins — open the hole wide, spread the roots without bending them, and water in thoroughly / Hydrangeas will appreciate having spent flower heads removed cleanly at the first pair of plump buds / Camellia in a sheltered border can be lightly shaped after its last flowers fade — avoid cutting into old wood and keep the soil moist with a permanent mulch of leaf mould.

ORCHARD : Before midday, the moon moves through a fruit day — a fine stretch for working around dormant fruit trees and soft fruit / Grapevines still waiting to go in the ground can be planted now: set them at the same depth as in the nursery and cut back hard to two or three strong buds to encourage vigorous new growth / Currant bushes and blackcurrants planted 1.2 m apart will have weeks to anchor before sap begins to move — work a generous layer of well-rotted compost into the planting hole rather than fast-release fertiliser / The waning gibbous moon in its descending phase suits root establishment well, so any bare-root cherry trees or quince trees still waiting in the shed can go in today.

VEGETABLE PATCH : After midday, the day shifts to a root type — a quieter, more earthy energy that suits consolidation work rather than planting out / Walk the beds and check overwintering leeks: remove any yellowing outer leaves cleanly and firm frost-lifted plants back into the soil / Lay a 5–6 cm mulch of straw or wood chips around strawberry rows; this protects crowns from late cold snaps and keeps soil structure open as temperatures begin to swing / In a cold greenhouse, check stored tubers and roots for soft spots — remove any showing rot before it spreads to neighbours.

LANDSCAPING : A damp, still morning in late winter is a good moment to assess bare-root roses still to be planted: trim any damaged roots cleanly with sharp secateurs before setting the bud union just at soil level / Hellebores in flower now benefit from the removal of old, blemished foliage at the base — this improves air circulation and lets the blooms show properly / Camellias in bud will thank you for a deep watering if the soil feels dry beneath the mulch; lime-free water matters here.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A steady root day with the descending waning gibbous moon — think soil work and planting rather than anything above ground / Plant shallot bulbs at soil level, 15 cm apart in rows 25 cm wide; firm the soil gently so just the tip shows / Jerusalem artichoke tubers go in 10 cm deep, 50 cm apart — they ask for very little and reward you handsomely come autumn / Onion sets can be tucked in 10 cm apart, rows 25 cm wide; a well-loosened bed with a little compost worked in beforehand makes all the difference.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root roses still waiting in the shed will settle in well now — dig a generous hole, work in compost, and set the bud union just at soil level / Hellebores planted in light shade and moist soil will establish quietly and reward you for years — avoid moving them once they are in.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A root day with the waning gibbous descending moon — good conditions for soil work and planting bulbs and tubers / Garlic cloves go in 3 cm deep, tip pointing up, 12 cm apart in rows; if your soil is heavy, work in a little coarse sand beforehand to keep water from pooling around the base / Parsnip beds can be prepared now — break up any compacted layers with a fork and work in compost so roots will run straight and deep come spring / Black salsify is worth a try if you have a free row: loosen the bed to 30 cm, as these roots resent any obstacle that makes them fork.

ORCHARD : Bare-root quince trees and hazel still available in nurseries will settle in well now — dig a generous hole, loosen the base, and backfill in stages, firming with your foot as you go / Grapevines can be pruned while fully dormant: cut back to two or three strong buds per cane, then clear away prunings to reduce overwintering disease pressure / If you have walnut trees, resist any hard pruning — a light formative cut on young trees is all they need at this stage.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the evening sign change, the descending waning gibbous moon holds a root day — firm, steady energy for soil work and planting / Tuck potato tubers into pre-warmed beds: chit them first on a bright windowsill, then set them 10 cm deep, 35 cm apart in rows 70 cm wide — the extra row width makes hilling up much easier later / Beetroot clusters can be pressed into loosened soil 2 cm deep, spacing clusters 5 cm apart; thin to 10 cm once the first true leaves appear / Chinese artichoke tubers are still available in specialist nurseries and worth planting before the ground firms up — set them 10 cm deep in a well-drained corner / Turnips appreciate a fine, crumbly seedbed: work in a little compost and firm gently before placing the young plants / Celeriac started under cover earlier this month benefits from being potted on into individual modules now, giving roots room to develop before planting out.

LANDSCAPING : After the evening sign change, the moon shifts to a flower day — a good moment to check on hellebores and winter jasmine / Hellebores in bloom appreciate a thin mulch of leaf mould around the base to keep roots cool and moist; avoid disturbing the crown / Bare-root roses still waiting in the garage can go in before the end of the month — dig a generous hole, work in compost, and set the bud union just at soil level, firming well / Trim winter jasmine stems that have finished flowering and tie in any new whippy growth to keep the framework tidy.

LANDSCAPING : Dividing perennials while the soil is still cool is a satisfying winter task — lift clumps of chrysanthemum with a fork, split them into sections each carrying three to five shoots, and replant 40 cm apart in freshly composted ground / Cyclamen tubers can be shifted to a cooler, shadier corner; set each tuber at the surface and top-dress with a thin layer of leaf mould to retain moisture

ORCHARD : Grapevines are still dormant and pruning can continue without risk — cut back to two or three buds on each spur and remove crossing wood to open the framework / Raspberry canes planted earlier may have been lifted by frost; firm them down and mulch along the row with 5 cm of well-rotted compost to protect shallow roots

LANDSCAPING : Early this morning the moon shifted from a flower day to a leaf day — a good cue to refocus attention on foliage plants and leafy structure / Hellebore clumps that have finished flowering can be tidied now: cut away any tatty or spotted leaves at the base to let new growth breathe and reduce disease pressure / Camellia and rhododendron benefit from a generous mulch of composted bark laid 5–8 cm deep around the root zone, kept clear of the stem — this locks in moisture and buffers the acid soil they love / Hydrangea: remove last season's spent flower heads with clean secateurs, cutting just above a healthy pair of buds; leave the woody framework intact to protect emerging shoots from late frost

VEGETABLE PATCH : The rest of the day settles firmly into leaf energy — worth making the most of it under cover if temperatures are still low / Spinach transplants go into a cold frame or tunnel, spacing plants 8 cm apart in rows 30 cm wide; firm the soil around each root and water in with a fine rose / Corn salad is remarkably cold-hardy — set plants 5 cm apart in rows 20 cm, and they will shrug off light frost without complaint / Leek seedlings ready at pencil thickness can be planted out 12 cm apart in rows 30 cm, dropping each into a 15 cm dibber hole and watering in without backfilling / Kale transplants go in 50 cm apart, rows 60 cm — in heavier soils, mix in a handful of compost per planting hole to keep drainage sharp

ORCHARD : A quiet leaf day is a fine moment to add a top-dressing of compost around cherry tree, plum tree and quince tree roots — spread a 5 cm layer out to the drip line, avoiding direct contact with the trunk / Kiwi vines can be checked and any remaining unpruned laterals shortened back to two or three buds while the plant is still fully dormant

VEGETABLE PATCH : The Last Quarter passed early this morning — the descending moon now settles into a steady leaf day, well suited to nurturing leafy crops under cover / Transplant lettuce seedlings started in trays: set them 25 cm apart in rows 30 cm wide, firming soil gently around each root ball — cool temperatures help them establish without bolting / Chicory transplants can go into a sheltered cold frame now, spaced 30 cm apart in rows 35 cm wide; the slight chill actually sweetens the leaves / Sorrel is worth tucking into a corner of the polytunnel or cold frame: plant out at 25 cm in the row, rows 30 cm apart — it will provide early pickings for weeks / In heavier soils, work in a 3–4 cm layer of mature compost before planting to improve drainage and feed soil biology

LANDSCAPING : Camellia and rhododendron look their best when their root zone is well protected — top up any mulch that has thinned over winter with 5–8 cm of composted bark, keeping it clear of the stem / Winter jasmine that has finished flowering can be pruned back now: shorten flowered shoots to two or three buds from the base and tie remaining stems to their support / Snowdrop clumps lifted and divided "in the green" — roots still intact — establish far more reliably than dry bulbs; replant immediately at 8 cm depth, 10 cm apart in a cool, lightly shaded spot

INDOORS : Lemon trees and oleanders overwintering under glass will appreciate a light wipe of their leaves with a damp cloth — dust accumulates through winter and reduces the plant's ability to make the most of the strengthening light / Check drainage holes on citrus pots: compacted roots can block them, leading to waterlogging that weakens the plant through spring.